Further ReadingYou can buy compatible with the original Game Boy (or “DMG”) and the Game Boy Pocket (“MGB”) for around $10, and they’re with a few basic tools. If you do this, though, you’ll also want to install something called a “.” These chips invert the colors on your Game Boy’s screen and then inverts them again (hence, “bivert”), improving contrast and visibility. The end result looks about as good as one of those that Hyperkin intends to release later this year.Installing a backlight in a Game Boy Color (“CGB”) is, unfortunately, much more difficult, expensive, and potentially damaging. The process involves buying a backlit screen from a Game Boy Advance SP (or a Chinese clone; more on that later), an, and cutting a bunch of plastic inside the case so that everything will fit.
This is a mod of all mods for the GameBoy Advance. Essentially converting it into a game console with an ability to attach a joystick, output video to a TV or an RGB monitor, and provide power.
Adding a backlight to a Game Boy Advance is cheaper and easier, and the GBA plays Game Boy and Game Boy Color games just fine with no software emulation or screen scaling, so I’d recommend doing that rather than putting a backlight in a Game Boy Color. But we all have our own favorite hardware, and there’s nothing stopping you from doing it if you have money, time,. Getting a backlit screen in the original GBA. Andrew CunninghamNow let’s talk about putting a backlight in an original Game Boy Advance (“AGB”). The very earliest versions of this mod involved harvesting a screen from a late-model Game Boy Advance SP (“AGS-101”), which came out in late 2005 and replaced the earlier front-lit GBA SP (“AGS-001”). While the GBA SP’s light and rechargeable battery made it popular at the time, I would argue that the comfortable horizontal layout, larger shoulder buttons, and headphone jack all make the original GBA more comfortable and convenient, at least once you get rid of the horrible un-lit screen.Luckily for us, modding old Game Boy Advances is popular enough that you don’t need to buy a perfectly fine GBA SP and destroy it just to upgrade your old version.
Buying compatible backlit screens from eBay costs around $40, but don’t go buying things willy-nilly. There are a few things you need to know first. Installing a backlit screen requires an adapter cable, often sold in a bundle with the screen and some screwdrivers. Pop off your GBA’s battery cover and look at the tiny sliver of exposed motherboard—if the number starts with a 1, you need a 32-pin adapter. If it starts with a 0, you need a 40-pin adapter. When you buy these little ribbon cables, get the version with a small red pre-soldered cable.
You’ll need a during installation so you can solder this cable to a part of the GBA’s motherboard, boosting the backlight’s brightness. You will need to cut some of the plastic inside the GBA’s case to make room for the larger screen assembly.
When done properly, you won’t be able to tell when the GBA is closed back up, but the translucent GBA shells are less forgiving than the opaque ones. An Xacto knife or—for the more confident—a can do the job.If you have the equipment and you’re comfortable doing all of this yourself, great! If not, there are plenty of sellers on eBay and Etsy who will sell you an already-backlit Game Boy Advance in just about every possible combination of colors for a modest markup (usually less than $120, unless you use a ).These (PDF) are the most comprehensive overview of what you need to do, including how to take things apart, what plastic inside the GBA’s case will need to be cut, and where things need to be soldered. I’ve also included some pictures so you can see what things look like when they’re done properly. Beyond that, here are a few tips:. This is a delicate soldering project; I found that “pre-tinning” the end of the wire by dipping it in a bit of hot solder first made it much easier to get the wire soldered to the motherboard properly. Make absolutely sure you’ve shaved away all the plastic you can.
Closing the GBA back up with the new screen in it is a tight fit, and if you force it shut you can cause all kinds of problems—enough pressure on the back of the screen can cause screen ripples during gameplay, and once I managed to bridge some of the pins for the cartridge slot, (temporarily, thank goodness) rendering the GBA unable to read cartridges. Also watch where you’ve routed that red wire so that it doesn’t get in the way of the case as you’re closing it.
One of my pictures above shows a safe way to route it so that it doesn’t get in the way of anything else. If you follow all of these steps and your screen appears overly bright or washed out, you may need to solder a second wire to fix it.
I have a fully loaded one I bought last Christmas.Quality: Well it's as you would expect. They use the same 3rd party shells everyone uses, same buttons, same screens, same everything really. Only OEM parts will really be the board from the AGB, as IIRC the screens are from China too.Mods: Mine has a glass screen, brightness switch, GBamp3, and BennVenn voltage regulator for max brightness.
I prefer eneloops, so I'll pass on their new lithium rechargeable pack.Cost: I paid $200 for mine back before they went even crazier with their prices. For the Materials I could have done it for MUCH less myself, especially since I have the OEM hardware lying around and the soldering skills necessary.Opinion?: Well it's a bit tricky. I'm happy with my system. It works great, I have no issues with it.
I purchased it when I had way more money than time to attempt the mod myself, and didn't want to risk breaking a ribbon cable, so ordering one was best.But would I buy one again?: No, the unit doesn't warrant the price in my book. There are some fine modders in this sub that can do the same for you for much cheaper.
Hell, some can do much more enticing custom work than a shell swap. Buy from the market place, or commision one of them based on their work in the.